Oh err that were a day

So, today we started together and finished a long, long way apart.

Yesterday, well, that was a long, challenging but satisfying and at the end very fun day. Today was all over the place.

We left the chambre d'hôte around 830, no breakfast - we were lucky to finally get a room - and hit the road for Avignon. Simon had decided to accompany me into Avignon, and to be honest I was grateful - the busy roads were really scary and navigating those into such a busy city had me a little nervous after 2 weeks of traffic being the odd tractor and a goat.

Navigating in to a big city has its challenges, as does going out, as I discovered! We hit the back roads towards Lirac and Tavel but there was still traffic, but thankfully much less. We finally found an open cafe, breakfasted and coffee'd (Simon is REALLY quiet riding pre coffee!) and then set forth for the Rhone and Avignon.

One minor navigational error later, a bit of checking once we were inside the ancient walls of this incredible city, and we found the Gare we were looking for. Tickets purchased, and mad dash to the platform - which is down then up. In a lift that barely fits a bike. And then the lift up to the platform - don't ask, long story - doesn't work, so it's lift the bike and full load up two flights of stairs to the platform.

And then my phone rings. It's Simon. I still have the map he needs, and my train is entering the station...

Oh hell. Grab map out of case, leaving bike, bags, wallet, passport, everything behind, mad dash down stairs to the lift to meet Simon, he doesn't get out of lift, I panic, think fast, throw map close to lift door and leg it back up stairs to platform and bike, grab it, run to far end of train - miles! - as short fat French conductor frowns at me, leap on board doors close, train departs...

Check for passport etc, thank god it's all there. Im missing a glove, dropped. Two minutes later very nice young man finds me and hands me glove - to effusive poor French thanks from me.

Txt Simon - he got the map! OMG, miracles do happen!

Settle in for boring non TGV train ride - TGV to Lyon St Expury don't take bikes. Means I have to ride the 25k from Lyon to the airport. Gulp.

Two hour train ride, listening to BBC and radio nz podcasts. Arrive, off, reassemble bike and head for crowded station. Every man and his small white dog is here, along with huge and well armed Gendarmes - the SNCF even has it's own armed force - so I lock bike to large pillar - considered locking to Gendarme, dismissed, rushed in to book shop, grabbed map of Lyon, paid, dashed out. Bike still there, evil types no doubt scared by my stubble and smell :)

Exit station, into a howling gale. I've lived in and landed in Wellington. This wasn't an "is the airport open" gale, this was "is the airport still there" wind. Every sense is imposed upon, as you try and open, read, fold and pack a map, keep an eye out for nefarious villainous types (might be wearing berets, might not) and stay calm.

Le sigh.

When Simon and I came in from the airport, it was early-ish morning, we had his computer capability, and it wasn't blowing a howling gale.

I didn't have these things. I had had breakfast 6 hours ago. I had a cheap map. I had me :)

The iPhone gave me compass direction, the map an idea. I headed east, found the hospital, but no way round it. Gagging for a wee, waited for full bus to pass - nothing to see here - and relieved (I've been in rural France way too long) I kept moving east. Finally found the route out, busy as hell but out.

5k found me the bike path. The cover I had had from buildings was now gone, and the side wind had me leaning hard right, compensating as it eased so I didn't wobble in to traffic - scary stuff.

Knew I was about 15k from the airport. And then the facade crumbled. A sign for the golden arches. Oh god, I was so thirsty.

I'm not proud of this, let's be clear. But desperate times etc. I went around the roundabout, and entered that center of everything that isn't French food. I ordered un grand mac, un filet, frites and two large drinks.

The first drink lasted all of 20 seconds. The Mac, about a minute longer. Pause for breath. Oh, free wifi!

After 45 minutes, I knew it was time to front up and leave; god that was a hard moment. Back to the chained bike, wind so loud you can't even think.

And 10k to go. God those were busy roads. Shouting at the wind helps, a little, not much.

Final roundabout 4k to go, oh, so very close, but such a busy, narrow road. Trucks passing so close at 100kph, every one who gives me room I shout really loudly "thanks mate" hoping kiwi karma really works.

And I make the roundabout at the airport. Oh god I'm nearly there I'm nearly safe. I cross the multiple roads into the airport, and just as I pass under the first structure, a massive roar fills my ears and I jump, physically - I've just crossed over the TGV line as one went through, I had forgotten the utterly visceral and prehistoric noise those things make as they roar past.

I sight the hotel, my smile huge.

The lobby greets me - ah the joy of walking into the lobby of a good hotel wheeling a bike, smelling really bad and unshaven :)

40 minutes to break the bike and pack it - see you again in New Plymouth old friend. And then a glorious very hot then very cold shower. Clean clothes - and boxers! - and down to the bar to work and drink hugely expensive beer.

The riding is done. My compadre is still out there, somewhere in Nimes tonight. Kia kaha Simon, it's been huge. Karen, we looked after each other, he is very capable and will be fine, and is fully briefed for your arrival.

This isn't my last post. But for now, the riding is over, and that's good and bad. I will cope, I'm sure.

BA to London at 8AM, French time - catch you soon.



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